"It is in the wild places, where the edge of the earth meets the corners of the sky, the human spirit is fed." Art Wolf


Wednesday, September 16, 2015

The Skellig Islands

Do you hear the drum roll behind the title?  The Skellig Islands are very special.  They are accessed by an eight mile boat ride across choppy seas on the best of days.  Many days the boats do not run because the waters are too unsafe.  There are only a limited number of tourists that are allowed on any given day.  The hike up the steps are not for the faint hearted, but neither is the boat ride or the getting on and off of the bobbing boat once it makes land at the island. 

The monastery built on the larger Skellig was built by hand over centuries by the monks that lived there.  They sought out the Island for its remoteness. It provided solitude for their pensive and prayer filled life of reflection.  The bee hive huts and hermitage provided for 12 monks.  There was a waiting list.  Once a monk came to the island they remained for the rest of their days.  

We felt lucky that the weather was still supporting our adventures. Throughout the previous days Dee kept reminding us that we would not actually know if the trip was on until the day arrived and the weather and seas were evaluated.  When it was a "go" she also shared that out of 14 possible trips that she had only seen the group go a couple of times.

It was blustery and rainy as we left the dock.  We bundled up for the trip across the open water.

Katie, Tom and Elaine.   


Liz, Dee and Katie.  



And so the journey to the top began. The number 600, as in 600 steps, had been thrown out there frequently previous to our arrival.  Several of of considered all the hikes we had taken earlier in our tours as preliminary training for today.   We were ready.  Just one step in front of the other.


Getting our introductory briefing before heading up the stairs. Remember there are no bathrooms and no cafes on this island......


I did not stop to take pictures on the way up but concentrated on staying upright on the stairs and breathing oxygen regularly.....  Before I knew it we had arrived at the "Saddle."  Years after the monks left, a light house was built and for a brief period of time families came to maintain it. Here is where their one milk cow grazed.  

The main trail heads off behind me but ahead of me on the other spiral of rock is another hermitage that a solo monk built for himself at the very top.  The trail up is no longer safe for passage but we can look up and imagine the hours he spent in contemplation and prayer.


Lungs once again functioning sufficiently we will head up the next section of stairs.


But first we can stand and look around and just breathe.  The small boats that bring visitors out to the island, park out in the water and wait for them to descend.  We are too far out from land to run back and forth.



It is not necessary to wear shoes.  Well at least for some hikers it isn't necessary.


Ready to continue the climb?   Because the number of visitors to the island is limited and the tour boats have specific drop of and pick up time frames, we are not crowed on the stairs and are each able to find our own speed of ascent and later descent.


The monks wanted to be closer to their God.


Sitting in front of the main cluster of Beehives listening to the history of the island presented by Catherine, who has served on the island for over 15 seasons.  I think she likes the place.  There many times when the very small handful of guides that live on the island are here alone because of the weather and the seas.   



Looking back at the smaller Skellig Island that we will pass closer to on our way back to the mainland.



The monks built four different stairs around the island to improve the chances that supplies could land on at lest one, depending upon the conditions of the sea.  The bottom of these original steps was destroyed near the bottom by the blasting that was done to put in the current small dock.  I kept imagining small Hobbits walking up the side of the hill.   In truth, a film crew from an upcoming Star War's movie was or had just been filming on the island.  We saw no sign of them but had given up dinner in the hotel restaurant because the film crew was being fed there.  The Pub Bar of the Hotel the next door down work excellent for us.


Once you were chosen to serve on the island, you were there for life remember.   Oh,  on another subject, did you notice how the rainy boat ride over changed into a beautiful blue sky day!  We all did. 






Looking down on another part of the old trail.



So now it is time to start down if we are to meet back up with our boat.  Liz and I leave allowing us plenty of time to navigate the small uneven steps at our own pace.   These monks definitely were smaller in stature and had smaller feet than my size 12.  Many areas going down I took sideways.  Can you see the small people specks far below?



Bye stairs, I am thinking this climb and this Island is one of those once in a lifetime journeys.


Back at the "Saddle" area I can now look across at the other spiral and make out the stone work at the top.





Making our way down slowly allows some opportunities to look back and take pictures missed on the way up.



Liz, Ann and I got back to the boat first.  Notice the steps? What you can't see in the picture is the pitch and bob of the boat as she waiting on the water.  


The men were very good at what they did and we all got off and back on safely.   The older gentleman is the captain and the one who holds the actual license to land on the island. Not everyone is allowed the privilege.  The picture to the right of his head is a photo from his youth standing next to a tall surf board. . He was the first person in Ireland to introduce surfing to the island and was/is quite famous for his surfing talents of those earlier times.  There is interesting history everywhere in this land.



Looking back as we make our way.  Can you see the old steps from this angle? Can you see the Monks (or Hobbit adventurers) making their way down to the water?




Katie no longer bundled up against the elements.


Then we were taken past the smaller Skellig Island which is the home to some seals and many, many gulls.








Arriving back on the mainland in the early afternoon there were several other stops made before the day was over but somehow the Skellig Islands needs their own blog.  We had made it.

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