"It is in the wild places, where the edge of the earth meets the corners of the sky, the human spirit is fed." Art Wolf


Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Whales and Water

Yesterday Liz and I headed off on our Whale Eco Tour of Laguna Ojo de Liebre.  We had two tour guides - one on the bus driving over and another driving the panga our into the laguna.....   The ride over to the water was very informative and told us about the history of the town and the Salt Mines.  The area that you enter to see the whales was only open for whale watching in 1983.  It is controlled by the Salt Mines and the government.  We saw huge piles of salt and were told that after it was collected it was stored about eight hours away by barge on an island in an even larger pile.  Most of the slat is used in manufacturing processes or as road salt.   

Our very bilingual guide (He had spent 17 years in the US) also explained how the Osprey have been protected for many years in the area.  Nests are put up along side the road to keep them from nesting on the electric poles.   When the birds do make a nest it can not be disturbed.  Apparently the company lost use of a million dollar crane because of birds nesting.  Edgar also pointed out barge #6 with an Osprey nest sitting out on the front bow.  The company was initially told they would have to discontinue use of the barge which would have been a huge lost.  They owners asked, "What if using and moving the barge back and forth to the island with the salt doesn't bother the birds?"   Well, it didn't. The birds eat breakfast in one spot and may travel across to the island for dinner there.  They were just as happy with a moving home and old #6 barge was saved for continued use.

Edgar also pointed out the "company store" for the workers in the Salt Mine.  It works like a military commissary and they get about 50% off. He said the rest of the town was welcome to shop there but paid full price.  A large majority of the town is directly connected to the mining of salt and the businesses supporting the workers with the tourist businesses contributing during whale season.  (Again, I will refer you to Liz's blog for better whale pictures...but I can take pictures of Liz....:=))  Yes, it was chilly out there when the boat was moving fast over the water but we were dry and plenty warm as we moved around watching.


We saw a lot of this. Once our guide found the sweet spot there were whales surfacing on all sides of the boat.  And we are still early for the season.  The Gray Whales have been observed moving south earlier than usual this year but the males and the juveniles come after the females so this is still just an early showing.  The lagoon is large and protected with a slightly higher salt content that makes it easier for the new born calves to get the the surface to breath.  When they are born it take a "helper" mom to lift the new born that first time after the whale mother delivers.  We didn't see any deliveries but our guide did follow after a mom and baby for a ways. He said that the baby was between 3 days and 1 week old.   I think Liz got a shot of the two of them surfacing at the same time.  I got shots of them coming up for air individually but with out perspective the all look big in the picture.  The babies sound very different when they breath though.  We had gotten used to hearing the adult soundings and then this little "poof" comes up. 


This is how the whale can check out what is happening above water.  Edgar said they use this method when traveling south (or north) by rising up and seeing where the shore line is.....as they make their way down (or up) the coast.


And here is a tell tail sign that a whale was right here...and recently but your camera was too slow.




This is the whale that played with us for a while.  She passed under out panga several times much to the fear of one of the young tourists in row right in front of us.  That is what comes of watching too many movies, we think.



But then again, anything this big could have done what ever she wanted to with our little boat.


This was my best "tail" shot....  as in there she is behind us now!  Made him look!


Pretty dunes.... without drunks driving over each other in their 4-wheelers.  (....as in the recent news.) Glad that Sharon has the good sense to ride safely.



Barges waiting to be transferred out the to storage island.



"This is my barge and I am proud of it!"    But is does show the power of their swimming that they can launch themselves up so high.....



Back home to port.   The bird pictures will wait as will the pictures of our drive and the little hotel parking lot we found for the night.  This place is neat even if, once again, we didn't trust the electric hook ups.....   It doesn't matter. We have generators!


Perhaps if Mitch was interested in an Edgar...?   He has worked as the tour guide on the buses during Whale Season for three years. He spiels off the information in both Spanish and English, except out entire bus was filled with English speakers.  He had to fill out the stories to last the whole ride.  The rest of the time he works as a freelance interpreter, working for companies and individuals doing work in Mexico.  He knew where all the best little fish taco stands were in town, among other tit bits.....  Some one suggested he offer a foodie tour.....


It wasn't to frightening for Remi last night with the sounds of celebration.  We slept well and if the fog ever clears we will be on our way farther south and to the beaches.

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